The fare is authentically inauthentic, representing a city of migrant-rich flavors through the lens of a native. The Taqueria provides the ideal backdrop for chef Ray Garcia’s rift on convention, a casual, counter service environment for lunch, and bustling full service dinner. Snacks, referred to as Bolsas, such as the Lemon-Pepper Chicken Chicharrones and “Rice and Beans” are perfect to share with the group, but the headliner remains the taco. House favorites include the bologna with escabeche and the clams and lardo. For dinner, also expect family-style nightly specials like the Snapper Veracruz, a deep-fried whole fish presentation.